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National Geographic, Traveller. November Issue 2016

My final stop is near Caherdaniel. Here I join John and Kerryann Fitzgerald, the husband-and-wife team behind Atlantic Irish Seaweed for a shoreline-foraging adventure.

We kick off with a cornucopia of tasting plates (think kelp spiced beef, or chai with bladderwrack and masala spices), before heading out to scour the shoreline for slimy goodies. Seaweeds were eaten by monks on the Skelligs, John tells me. “There’s so much good stuff in them, they make kale and blueberries look like kebabs and chips.”

As I’m leaving, he pops a few gifts into my boot — a jar of dried pepper dulse (a strong smelling ‘truffle of the sea’), a bath pack of dried wrack, and a bottle of elderflower champagne with sugar kelp. Perfect.